“No one’s going to do that. That’s absurd.” – Gerry Lopez when first confronted with the idea that people might pay anyone to go surfing.
Mr. Pipeline, Mr. Style, actor, shaper, surfer & snowboarder. Gerry Lopez has lived one of the fullest lives of anyone on the planet, and has stood calm in the eye of the Banzai storm like no-one before or since.
Occy caught up with Gerry at the Billabong house at Pipeline to chat about pioneering the shortboard revolution, surfing G-Land for the first time, and the worst wipeout he ever had at Pipe – literally tearing himself a new one and puncturing his colon.
This interview will have you wishing for the old days, excited for the future and wanting to pack more into your everyday existence.
Enjoy Occ-Cast episode 33 featuring Gerry Lopez.
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